The next morning was another glorious, sunshiny day of perfect Mediterranean weather, soft breezes, blue skies, and even bluer seas. Our ship was safely anchored in the caldera of Santorini with its towering rocky rim surrounding us 270 degrees.
Two other large ships joined us which didn’t bode well for touron-free exploring. Never fear, Dear Reader, we had a well-thought out escape plan ready to throw into action. Let’s see how the Experts handle an overly touristy, people-clogged destination!
First, the Experts employ the Rope Drop strategy. We were already in line for a tender when they announced the All-Clear. Obviously, we couldn’t just walk off the ship as entertaining and soggy as that might be.
The plan was to once again forego the pricey, ship-sponsored transfer to Oia (pronounced EE-UH) and make our own way there via taxi. But first we had to get TO a taxi. (WAY easier said than done.)
The tender ride was uneventful and smooth and the port area was easy to navigate and find our way to the cable car that would hoist us and 4,000 of our closest friends up the caldera rim to where 99% of Santorini’s “stuff” was. If you guessed that we’d visit the other 1%, you’d be right, but I’ll get to that.
Anyway, the cable car was super cheap at $3 pp each way and can move 1,200 people in an hour. That’s a LOT more people and probably faster than the poor donkeys that have to haul some really heavy folks up the hill for about 20 times that cost and 10 times the time. We could have hiked up the switchback trail. No thank you. We were up the hill within 30 minutes from ticket purchase to finding out where 4,000 people were hanging out. Enjoy this short video of the partial ride up. I video’d again on the way back down later.
Now, let me paint a picture for you, Friends…
The streets of the area just above the port where the cable car dumps its passengers out is a maze of $hitshops where you can find any manner of ceramic crap, cheesy dish towels, bottle openers, fridge magnets, and polyester clothing made in a thousand sweatshops in China. The streets are narrow with porters trying in vain to haul luggage past the stenosis of human traffic. Everyone stops without warning to “get that perfect shot” or find that perfect piece of junk to fill their suitcase with giving no regard to who’s behind them making the jammed-up mess 1,000 times worse. This, Folks, is the place to run away from as fast as you can possibly navigate out of. Which is not fast. At all. (Who am I kidding? I can’t run.)
With some effort, the 4 of us finally did make it to the place we could hail a taxi, and for $40 (as opposed to $40 pp for the ship’s transfer to Oia. This was Expert Move #2) for the carful we were taken to Oia- a 30-minute, mostly non-nausea-inducing trek across some pretty bleak landscape. Let me be clear, like most other places in the world, driving does not mean the same thing as in N. America. If you can simply avoid going off the caldera’s rim, you are doing great in Santorini. Yeeeehaw!
We were then introduced to an even more elbow-to-elbow situation; Fira (the village above the port) had NOTHING on Oia for tourist impaction. However, there were some very nice views, some shops that housed some less junky-looking stuff, and a LOT of incredibly over-priced restaurants. I mean, sure, you got a spectacular view, that I’m sure was exquisite at sunset, but the food looked like the same being served 2 blocks over sans view or sunset.
The first place we decided to stop and take a peek in was a church. Don’t ask me which one, there are approximately 4,593 little churches on every island in Greece and they all pretty much approximate each other with loads of gold-leafed icons, paintings of the Madonna with Child sporting golden halos, golden chandeliers, censers, ornate carved furniture, candles galore. It’s all stunning and one could stand in a Greek Orthodox church for quite a while admiring the workmanship of the crafters. We never failed to be impressed with the sheer plethora of items to take in. I think even for those who, for whatever reason don’t agree with or appreciate the tenets, it would be sad to not at least be able to appreciate the artistry therein and the talent poured into the place- even for the history aspect alone. We left a little richer for having a had a short time of reflection and a deeper admiration for the past and these people.
At this point, the four of us split up, agreeing to meet up for lunch at our pre-determined location. Which leads me to Expert Strategy #3- Ditch the Crowd!
Mikki and I wandered through the streets, none of which were easy to navigate due to masses of tourists. We stopped now and then for “that perfect shot” just like everyone else but, because there were so many doing the same thing, no one got a perfect shot; everyone was reduced to the lowest common denominator.
Neither of us is really a shopper, so nothing enticed us to stop and take a second look. Instead, we found ourselves on the steep, zigzagging trail down to Ammoudi Bay, home to several fish tavernas, a small fleet of cute little fishing boats and clear, blue water for pictures.
It was on this half-hour hike down that I realized I am helplessly lazy and incredibly out of shape. I nearly burst a lung and my thighs burned with the effort of aerobic exercise. Sad, but true. I was sore the next day (and the next), but it was NOTHING compared to after climbing the Duomo Bell Tower later in Florence. Nevertheless, we made it down the rim to Ammoudi just below the town of Oia. Real experts would train before attempting this, so clearly I’m an imposter. Or only an Expert in some things.
Honestly, we couldn’t have been happier though. There were hardly ANY people down there at all, mostly because cruisers tend to be on the older side and don’t venture out off the beaten path like that much. (Yes, I’m generalizing, don’t skewer me.) We diddled around a little and took some photos down by the water, and I learned the hard way that I’m not only out of shape but not 20-something anymore either and can’t climb up and over rock walls very well anymore. I bunged up my knee and arm which sported giant bruises for the remainder of the trip all for the sake of a selfie. What a dumba$$ Scathed, we decided to start our hunt for the perfect lunch spot.
I’ll leave off here and pick it up next time with Lunch on the Bay.